This guide supports the Learn to Make Amigurumi workshops in the Library Makerspaces. In these workshops, you will learn basic crochet skills for amigurumi, which is the Japanese craft of creating small stuffed toys. You can find the workshop schedule here.
Once you have mastered the basic skills in that workshop, you are ready to create your own custom toys by learning how to make basic shapes. This guide will help you make simple shapes for your toy pieces, which can be sewn together to complete your project. Bring your designs and projects to the crochet sessions for guidance and practise.
If you have a design that you would like to create in crochet, the first step is to reduce the toy or creature into its basic shapes, like spheres, tubes, etc. You may be familiar with these types of diagrams from learn-to-draw tutorials.
If you do not have a design ready, you may want to practise creating the shapes before designing your toy, so that your finished object shows off your crafting strengths. For example, if you discover that you dislike sewing, you may want to design a creature with fewer pieces that need sewing. It is possible to make creatures with multiple limbs that do not require sewing, so don't let fussiness in finishing discourage you from making complex designs!
Tip: As you experiment with making shapes, write down each step for creating that shape. Once you perfect the shape and want to make another one, you'll need to know exactly how you created the original.
We would love to see your finished toys!
Send your photographs to Eva McDonald or to Makerspace Librarian Muyi Ogunleye, or tag us on Instagram at @centennialllc.
We may feature your creations in our promotional campaigns.
You can make a half sphere by using only increases, or by using only decreases. Whichever method you choose will depend on your design.
If you learn how to make a ball, it will teach you both methods for making half spheres.
To make a ball, choose a starting number of stitches, anywhere from 4-7 stitches. I recommend using 5 because it's easier to track the number of stitches at the end of each round. This sample pattern uses 5 starting stitches, but no matter which starting number you use, the method is the same. The only thing that differs is the stitch count at the end of each round.
1. When starting a ball, you can make a magic loop, described here with photos, and single crochet (sc) the starting number of stitches into the loop. A magic loop is simply holding a loop of yarn with your fingers, and crocheting into the loop. You tighten the loose ends of the loop to close the hole. It's a fussy trick and takes practice, but is worth learning.
Another option is to chain 4 stitches (ch4) and join for working in the round. Then sc your starting stitches into the ring. This is an easier option, but may create a hole that you'll need to sew closed, when finishing your piece.
No matter which method you use, if you start with 5 stitches (sts) as your starting number, single crochet (sc) 5 sts into the loop.
2. In the first round, sc each stitch (st). If you started with 5 sts, you will have 10 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round (sc around).
3. In the next round, [sc, inc] around. This means that you will sc the first stitch, then increase (inc) every other stitch, all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 15 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
4. In the next round, [sc2, inc] around. This means that you wlll sc the first 2 sts, then inc, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 20 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
5. In the next round, [sc3, inc] around. This means that you will sc the first 3 sts, then inc, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 25 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
6. In the next round, [sc4, inc] around. This means that you will sc the first 4 sts, then inc, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 30 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
Do you see the pattern for creating the half sphere? If you want to keep increasing the circumference, continue the pattern. If you would like to stop increasing, make a few plain rounds. You now have a half sphere made with only increases. If you are making a ball, you can start stuffing your toy as you complete the bottom half.
7. To decrease, figure out how many sts are in each section. For example, if you started with 5 sts which means 5 sections, and you now have 30 sts, that means you have 6 sts per section. To start decreasing, you would decrease (dec) once in each section. With 30 sts, this means that the first decrease round is: [sc4, dec] around. That means that you will sc the first 4 sts, and then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 25 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
8. In the next decrease round, [sc3, dec] around. This means that you will sc the first 3 sts, then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 20 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
9. In the next decrease round, [sc2, dec] around. This means that you will sc the first 2 sts, then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 15 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
10. In the next decrease round, [sc, dec] around. This means that you will sc the first st, then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 10 sts at the end of the round. Make a plain round.
11. In the next decrease round, dec around. This means that you will dec each st. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 5 sts at the end of the round.
12. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop. With a yarn needle, run the yarn through the last 5 sts and weave the tail into the ball to lock it. Tuck the loose end inside the ball.
A cone can be made with only increases from the thin top pointy end to the wide round bottom end. A cone can also be made with only decreases from the wide round bottom end to the thin to pointy end. Whichever method you choose will depend on your design.
The method of making a cone is the same as making a half sphere, except that you add extra plain single crochet rounds between the inc or dec rounds. For example, for the "Ball & Half Sphere" instructions on this page, you can turn the first half sphere into a cone by adding 3 or more plain crochet rounds between each step. The more plain rounds you add between inc or dec rounds, the more elongated your cone will be. Try it and see the results!
If you made the "Ball & Half Sphere", making a disc uses the same instructions, except that there are no plain rounds between the increase or decrease rounds. Whichever method you choose, using only increases or only decreases, will depend on your design.
To make a disc using only increases, choose a starting number of stitches, anywhere from 4-7 stitches. I recommend using 5 because it's easier to track the number of stitches at the end of each round. This sample pattern uses 5 starting stitches, but no matter which starting number you use, the method is the same. The only thing that differs is the stitch count at the end of each round.
1. When starting a disc, you can make a magic loop, described here with photos, and single crochet (sc) the starting number of stitches into the loop. A magic loop is simply holding a loop of yarn with your fingers, and crocheting into the loop. You tighten the loose ends of the loop to close the hole. It's a fussy trick and takes practice, but is worth learning.
Another option is to chain 4 stitches (ch4) and join for working in the round. Then sc your starting stitches into the ring. This is an easier option, but may create a hole that you'll need to sew closed, when finishing your piece.
No matter which method you use, if you start with 5 stitches (sts) as your starting number, single crochet (sc) 5 sts into the loop.
2. In the first round, sc each stitch (st). If you started with 5 sts, you will have 10 sts at the end of the round.
3. In the next round, [sc, inc] around. This means that you will sc the first stitch, then increase (inc) every other stitch, all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 15 sts at the end of the round.
4. In the next round, [sc2, inc] around. This means that you wlll sc the first 2 sts, then inc, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 20 sts at the end of the round.
5. In the next round, [sc3, inc] around. This means that you will sc the first 3 sts, then inc, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 25 sts at the end of the round.
6. In the next round, [sc4, inc] around. This means that you will sc the first 4 sts, then inc, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 30 sts at the end of the round.
Do you see the pattern for creating the disc? If you want to keep increasing the circumference, continue the pattern.
To make a disc using only decreases, you are working backwards with the instructions above. Normally you would use this method when closing off a "Column", so you would already have a certain number of stitches and a starting number of sections.
1. To decrease, figure out how many sts are in each section. In this example, if you started with 5 sts which means 5 sections, and you now have 30 sts, that means you have 6 sts per section. To start decreasing, you would decrease (dec) once in each section. With 30 sts, this means that the first decrease round is: [sc4, dec] around. That means that you will sc the first 4 sts, and then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 25 sts at the end of the round.
2. In the next decrease round, [sc3, dec] around. This means that you will sc the first 3 sts, then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 20 sts at the end of the round.
3. In the next decrease round, [sc2, dec] around. This means that you will sc the first 2 sts, then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 15 sts at the end of the round.
4. In the next decrease round, [sc, dec] around. This means that you will sc the first st, then dec, and repeat that sequence all the way around. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 10 sts at the end of the round.
5. In the next decrease round, dec around. This means that you will dec each st. If you started with 5 sts, you will have 5 sts at the end of the round.
6. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop. With a yarn needle, run the yarn through the last 5 sts and weave the tail into the ball to lock it. Tuck the loose end inside the toy.
Sign up for a free Ravelry account and share your finished object. You can post your makes on Ravelry and get feedback from the online community. You have the option of publishing your pattern, offering it to others for free or for a fee. To open a free account to sell your patterns, refer to this Ravelry guide.
Tubes are simple to make but are versatile in becoming necks, or limbs when one end is closed. To practise making a tube, you may want to make this simple coffee sleeve.
Coffee Sleeve
1. Chain 30, and join for working in the round.
2. Single crochet around until the piece is as tall as you like.
3. Cut the yarn and pull it out of the last loop. Weave in the end.
To make a column, combine the instructions for the "Disc" made with increases, followed by instructions for the "Tube". In other words, make a disc by using increases, and then when it is the size you want, start making plain crochet rounds until the column is as tall as you like. To close off the column, follow the instructions for the "Disc" made with decreases.
You can separate a piece into 2 or more limbs. Pinch the fabric where you want the limbs to separate. You can use a stitch marker to keep the fabric pinched. Crochet each limb separately. If there is a hole where the limbs leave the body, sew it up.
You may want your edge to be defined by a raised border. To make this raised border, single crochet through the back loop only for the entire round. This will form a raised line that defines your edge.
To make scallops: [5 sc in the next st, sl] around.
This means that you will make 5 single crochets in the same stitch, then slip stitch (sl) in the next stitch. Repeat this sequence until you finish the round.
To make a slip stitch, insert your hook into the next stitch and pull the yarn through that stitch, and also through the stitch on your hook. You use the slip stitch when you want to move your hook to a different part of the piece, but don't want to add height to that section.
There are many ways to make colour changes in crochet, and some clever methods that minimize the colour transition called "seamless color changes", which you can research and practise.
This is the standard method, which leaves a visible jog where the yarn colour switches. In step 3 of the single crochet stitch, instead of pulling up a loop using the same colour, start using the other yarn in a different colour. If you are making stripes, do not cut the current yarn. If you are not making stripes, but simply changing colours, cut the old yarn. You will need to weave in the dead ends of the yarns to the inside of the toy.
Once you master making shapes, you can join a series of shapes seamlessly. For example, in this Rubber Ducky pattern, the head is a ball that is not closed off, but instead is crocheted to another ball which is the body.
Long flat pieces are made by making a chain by using chain stitches, then crocheting into the chain to the end. If you want a thicker strip, when you get to the end of the chain, turn your work and crochet back along the chain.
